Puppy Shopping List
Now that you are expecting your new puppy, it’s time to start getting ready. Of course you will have ideas of your own, but here is list of products that I have found to be useful with my own puppies over the years!
Most of these items are easily available on Amazon and/or at the big pet stores. (Petco, Petsmart, Pet Supplies Plus) Feel free to price shop and buy whatever you want where ever you want!
Containment
Ex-pen, at least one. Two (or more!) if the puppy will routinely be in two different places, 24” tall, preferably with door. You can also make enclosures for the puppy to run around in outside by clipping together 2 or 3. Midwest is the standard, Amazon Basics has one too. Iris pens are plastic, and a bit different size panels that might fit some homes better. One thing I don’t like about Iris pens is that humans can’t walk through the Iris pen gates! There are also tubular steel pens that I like quite a bit. Finally, there is a light weight pen from a company called Sea Breeze that are very nice and very portable. You want a pen that you can either remove panels from or fold down to a smaller size if needed.
Not all of these pens have the same length panels, so that may make a difference in terms of how they fit in your home. You may want to check measurements before you decide. I have all of them, if you want to see them at my house, and discuss the pros and cons with me.
Talk to me before getting over excited and buying one of the very expensive “pretty” wood ones. They have down-sides you might not be happy with. At least know what the down-sides are before spending a lot of money!
Pressure Gates:
Check spacing on the bars! Spaces need to be under 2” for puppies.
Bindaboo is good as are many other brands. Avoid Regalo!!! Puppies can walk right through these when they are small. You will have to immediately modify them, which is possible, but time-consuming.
Crates:
Appropriate sized plastic crate OR wire crate, 17” or 18” by 24” or 25”. At least one. If it is a wire crate, get one with a divider. (Puppy will be used to a plastic crate when coming home from me. In fact, I will ask that you send or bring the crate to me, so that your puppy can be crate trained in it before going home!)
Crate mats (and covers if using a wire crate) – Old towels will do at first
You can also get really beautiful crate mats from FMS Dog beds.
Vinyl floor remnant is often a good idea, to put under the ex-pen. Or other easy-clean, hard but non-slippery surface for under the ex-pen. (also consider covering any wall-to-wall carpet in areas where the puppy will play for the first few months) These can be purchased locally at Home Depot or Lowes.
Dog beds, washable – at LEAST one, two is better. (or you can use old towels for this too) Check Home Goods and TJ Maxx. They often have good deals on them.
By far my favorite beds are made by FMS Dog Beds. Ask to see mine when you visit! They also make lovely, affordable crate pads.
House Training
Litter pans (at least two, or you will be moving it around a LOT):
These are the best covered litter pans I’ve found on Amazon:
Litter – pine pellets, not hardwood. (This is often used for horse bedding, and can be found at feed stores like Tractor Supply. Very inexpensive. About $6 – $8 dollars for 40 lbs.) Our puppies are raised with litter and will use it.
Anti Icky Poo to spray over any areas where puppy makes mistakes. You can use other ENZYMATIC spray cleaners if you have to, but nothing works as well as Anti Icky Poo. Buy a gallon. You’ll use it by the time your puppy is grown! Do NOT think that bleach or vinegar will get rid of urine odors. Maybe for your nose… NOT for a dog!!!
There is also a new product that works even better if your puppy has an accident on a rug or upholstery (it happens to the best of us!) My Pet Peed. This stuff REALLY works!!!
Paper towels – lots.
Poop bags – Lots and LOTS!
Toys
Skineez
Mini Kong squeaky soft toys
Kong tennis balls (small size)
Empty plastic water bottles; take the plastic cap ring off (a favorite!)
No bones unless PLAIN and USA sourced.
Moose antlers are popular too, and expensive, but they last a long time. I buy mine from Acadia Antlers.
WOOF Pupsicle and refills (my dogs ALL love these!!!)
NO RAWHIDE
NO DENTAL CHEWS!!!
Grooming
Anti-tangle spray, my go-to is Chris Christensen Ice-on-Ice, but there are many. You will collect 8,542 bottles of grooming products in your dog’s lifetime!
OK, I am going to tell you to cut to the chase, bite the bullet and buy Chris Christensen combs and brushes for their adult coat. Yes there are many other brands, and most are less expensive. But for the most part, you will buy the cheaper ones, will not like them, and end up buying CC in the end. ESPECIALLY if you keep your dog in a longer coat. CC combs will last the life of your dog. All brushes have a lifespan, but CC brushes are VERY durable.
For your baby puppy you will need:
Small pin brush. Do not get one with balls on the ends of the pins. Those break hair and catch in knots causing discomfort to the puppy. This CC Ice Slip brush is my very favorite, and will last through the life of your dog. But if you want to start with something less expensive, this one will work for a puppy, but is less durable.
SOFT slicker brush (this is one place where CC is NOT the best… I like this one.
Face comb – this comb will work for the entire puppy for the first few months. This is one place where you can safely stray away from Chris Christensen! Here’s one that will be fine and is less expensive!
Proline Fair Advantage shampoo or other shampoo that is shampoo and conditioner in one.
I use Chris Christensen Happy Eyes Shampoo for faces.
Hair dryer with a WARM and LOW setting. A human dryer is FINE for one dog. If you want THE BEST, and can afford it, splurge for both you and your dog and ask your hair dresser to get you a Dyson professional hairdryer. You won’t BELIEVE how nice it makes your own hair feel and how quickly and quietly it dries even an adult Havanese in full coat, and how LUSCIOUS it makes them feel! Since getting one, I don’t ever use my dog dryers any more. While it seems obscenely expensive on Amazon, your hairdresser can probably get it for you for around $300, which is about what you’d pay for a good quality dog dryer.
Dog towels: save your old towels!
Resco nail clippers and Dremel (rotary nail grinder) Do not bother with other brands… this is another place where you will spend good money after bad
Styptic powder or Quick Stop
…Or go to groomer or vet OFTEN to have them do the nail clipping every 6 weeks is NOT enough! Nails should be clipped AT LEAST every 2-3 weeks, ideally once a week.
“Clothing”
6 foot leash – NO Flexi leads! Narrow width, i.e. 1/2” to 5/8” wide or narrower if you choose.
Long line (10-20 feet, light weight, like paracord. You can make your own if you can’t find one) for times that you want to give the puppy more room. (SHOULD NOT BE USED AROUND OTHER DOGS!!!)
Harness – For young puppies, Puppia vest harnesses work well. As your puppy reaches maturity, choose a harness that does not interfere with his shoulder movement nor put pressure on his trachea. I prefer the Petsafe 3 in 1 harnesses, though there may be other options. The Xtra small fits almost all adult Havanese. (these are too large for Havanese puppies)
Collar with ID tag for car travel
Coat - WARM and inexpensive b/c puppy will grow out of it fast. When they are a bit older, check out Foggy Mountain dog coats, and/or Petrageous coats. Don’t buy these until your puppy is full grown!!!
Sweater – ONLY if you have chosen a VERY short puppy cut, as sweaters tend to mat Havanese coats, especially during adolescence.
Feeding
Food dishes – I prefer stainless steel. Glass and china are fine as long as good quality, not made in China.
Water bottle, at least one, to attach to crate or ex-pen
(Lixit is one brand) Madan another. Needs to be guinea pig or dog size–i.e. larger bore) Avoid the “no drip” type with a spring, they are much harder for the puppy to drink from.
“No drip” bowls are great when the puppy is bigger.
Travel
For the car, Ruffland Kennels are an extremely safe and economical solution for car travel. Sort of the Rolls Royce of Travel kennels is the Variocage, but it is also quite expensive, and not easily moved from one car to another. I have both and can show them to you and explain the pros and cons in detail. (there are other, newer and expensive options on the market now, but you will have to investigate those yourself!)
Below this level of safety, the next safest place is ANY crate, securely fastened down in the BACK SEAT of the car with non-elastic ratchet straps; not bungee cords. (and NOT in the cargo space if you can avoid it… this is your “crumple zone”!!!)
From here on, you make less and less “safe” decisions, that sometimes you do have to make, based on your life style! What I would strongly urge against is “car harnesses”, which are likely to break a dog’s neck, even if they keep the dog in place in a crash. I especially would avoid a harness in a “car seat” that keeps the dog up above window level so that they can “see out”. Here, they are not only vulnerable to the impact pressure from the crash, but they are in the direct path of broken glass from the windows.
The LEAST safe way to travel with a dog is restrained. DO NOT do this!!! You risk the life of not only yourself and your dog, but everyone else in the car!!!
For plane or train travel, a soft carrier. Sherpa bag is the most common but check around, there are others. Sturdibags are great because they fit under the seat nicely, but give the pup more room when not under the seat While your dog is a puppy, or if your dog is a smaller adult, these can be a very safe option in the car, strapped down in the middle of the back seat!